BANGKOK, THAILAND

HISTORY     CLIMATE     TRANSPORTATION     SIGHTS

Located at the delta of the Chao Phraya River, Bangkok is Thailand's capital, financial center and chief port city. Metropolitan Bangkok covers an area of 604 square miles, but the heart of the city lies on the east bank of the river. A network of distinctive canals or klongs, both natural and constructed, lace the city to the river, providing the quickest and most interesting way to get around. With its jumble of crammed streets running in every direction, its collage of colors, sounds and scents, and its proliferation of temples and markets, Bangkok is considered one of the most exciting cities in Asia. The city is home to four universities, Thailand's national theater, and a fine arts academy. Among the more interesting aspects of Bangkok are its floating markets, in which goods are sold from boats in the canals. The Thonburi Floating Market attracts the most tourists, but those seeking a more authentic floating market experience visit the Damnoen Saduak, about 48 miles southwest of Bangkok.

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HISTORY
Bangkok became the capital of Siam (as Thailand was then named) in 1782, when General Phraya Chakkri, founder of the enduring Chakkri dynasty, assumed the throne as Rama I and built his palace on the east bank of the Chao Phraya River. By the end of his reign, Rama had established the city: his vast Grand Palace complex and Wat Po, the city's oldest temple, were completed, as was the great city wall, which was 13 feet high, 10 feet thick, with 63 gates and 15 forts.

Rama's successors continued to build up the city, adding many more wats, religious centers that also functioned as hospitals, libraries, schools and recreation centers. Rama V (r. 1868-1910) initiated an aggressive program of public works, preparing Bangkok for the automobile by building a system of roads and bridges. He also built more wats and developed the Grand Palace complex, completing the Wat Phra Kaeo, the royal temple housing the coveted Emerald Buddha. In 1932 Thailand established a constitutional government, and during World War II, the Japanese occupied parts of Bangkok. Since World War II, Bangkok has undergone rapid modernization and, despite a fluctuating economy, has remained a popular tourist destination.

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CLIMATE
Bangkok is hot and humid year round, with temperatures ranging from 77° F in December to 86° F in April, and humidity ranging between 60 and 80 percent. Rainfall averages 60 inches annually, coming mostly between May and September. Rain is heaviest in October, and between November and February the heat is less intense and there is less rainfall.

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TRANSPORTATION
Bangkok International Airport, 25 miles north of the city, is one of the busiest international airports in Asia, and plenty of domestic flights service nearby Don Muang airport. There are also government and private bus lines running into and out of the country, but many travelers prefer to ride the excellent trains. Bangkok is the hub of a continental Southeast Asian railway network, and in 1999 the city opened its elevated light-rail system to alleviate congestion on its highways. Despite this, however, the roads within the city are usually jammed, and driving is not recommended. Most visitors prefer to get around town via the river and the wonderful canal system. City buses are somewhat cheaper, but not nearly as much fun as the canals.

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SIGHTS

Grand Palace
Built beginning 1782 by King Rama I and gradually enlarged and elaborated by his successors, the Grand Palace is well worth a visit when you're in Bangkok. Some of its buildings are off limits because they are used for state functions, but visitors still have plenty to see. Among the highlights are the Wat Phra Kaeo, which houses the Emerald Buddah; the Forbidden Quarters, where the king once kept his harem; and the Pavilion for Holy Water, where priests purified themselves with water from Thailand's four principal rivers. Whether or not they are open to the public, the buildings are charming examples of palace architecture, combining traditional Thai forms with elements of Victorian and colonial European architecture.

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Jim Thompson's house
American architect and entrepreneur Jim Thompson is one of the most fascinating and mysterious figures to have lived in Thailand, and his former home remains one of Bangkok's most popular tourist attractions. During World War II, Thompson became a spy and lived in Thailand. He settled in Bangkok after the war, devoting his energies to revitalizing the Thai silk industry and collecting excellent examples of Asian art and Thai architecture. In 1967 Thompson disappeared mysteriously in Malaysia, leaving behind his remarkable home and art collection. Despite subsequent investigations, Thompson's disappearance has never been explained. His house is a distinctive conglomeration of six Thai houses. His priceless art collection includes Burmese carving, Khmer sculpture and Chinese porcelain.

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National Museum
Located about half a mile north of the Grand Palace, the National Museum houses one of the best collections of Southeast Asian art and offers visitors the best way to learn about Thai art and history. The collection is organized by period, and visitors can begin with the artifact gallery to get a historical overview, then move from the ceramics and bronzes of the Ban Chiang period (3000-4000 BC) through the successive eras up to the more recent styles of Thai art.

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Royal Barges
These graceful ceremonial barges, carved in the early 19th century to resemble creatures from the Ramayana, are among the loveliest sights in Bangkok. The most spectacular is the red-and-gold royal flag barge, the Golden Swan, which carries Thailand's king on special occasions. About once a month, the Royal Barges float in a parade down the Chao Phraya River to celebrate special occasions. Every November, the Golden Swan carries the king to lead the auspicious and gorgeous Royal Barge procession.

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