Picture Frame

Supplies
1 inch thick wood cut to the border width of your finished frame
flat backed molding such as door or window casing
additional decorative molding--rope, egg and dart, etc.
wood glue
trim nail gun or trim nails and hammer
wood filler
sandpaper
paint

Optional: faux finish glaze

Here is an inexpensive alternative to commercially framing your artwork. Determine the size of the frame you want to build. Add together the lengths of all four sides. Figure how many pieces of trim you will need, assuming that a standard length of trim is sold at 8-16 feet lengths. Make sure you allot enough extra wood for your cuts (saw blade widths.) For example, if your frame is 4 feet by 2 feet, you would need 2 pieces of each kind of trim at 8 feet long each.

To create the base for the frame, cut a 45-degree angle on one end of the 1 inch thick wood making sure the angle's longer point is made on the outer corner of the wood. Take your measuring tape and place it on the outer point of the miter cut. Measure to 4 feet and make a mark. This mark represents where the outer point cut on the other 45-degree angle should be made. Cut a 45-degree angle here, which mirrors the cut at the other end. Repeat this step with the other 8 feet piece of 1 inch thick wood. You should now have two 4 foot length pieces from point to point. Take the remaining piece and cut another 45-degree angle in the same orientation as before. Measure your tape from that outer point 2 feet and make a mark. Miter cut another 45-degree angle (mirror image of the other) at your mark. Repeat once more with the other remaining piece of wood.

Next take your casing, and repeat the exact measurements and cuts as you did with your base wood. Glue the casing onto the base wood and nail. Fill holes with wood filler and sand when dry.

If you want to use multiple pieces of decorative trim to give a more ornate look, repeat the same cutting process with all of the trim. Make sure you measure carefully how long each piece of trim should be based on where it rests in the frame. For example, if you want to place rope molding below, or inside, the casing, it will need to be cut at slightly shorter lengths to accommodate its inset position.

Once you have finished placing all of your trim and have sanded it smooth, you are ready to paint. I chose to use an artist's grade gold spray paint on my frame. Once the third coat of spray paint was dry, I used a raw umber glaze on top and ragged it off to give it an antiqued look.